Waiting for the ferry ramp to unfurl so we could disembark at Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, I was both excited and nervous about the day ahead. The Island is my retreat and solace; it always has been but this is the first time I’ve shared it, by bike, with my husband Alistair.

We’ve been married for years but Alistair is new to cycling and we’re exploring the sport to find a format for us to enjoy together. As with any other ride I lead, I relish the chance to foster a love of cycling in others, but I am aware of the responsibility that comes with helping adults try something new.

Mason Bokeh patiently waiting for the ferry to Yarmouth

Heading over with gravel bikes for a ‘Date Day’ (thanks for the title CeCe) the plan was to grab a coffee in Yarmouth and then head over to Freshwater, ride West towards Alum Bay, come back to Freshwater for lunch and then return East along the Tennyson Trail ridge before heading back North to Yarmouth to go home.

When I’m riding for pleasure (as opposed to official ride leadership) I increasingly view routes as a ‘contents page’ for the day with key points that can be linked together in a way that moulds to the curiosity and mood of the rider(s). This isn’t a recipe for all, but it’s what works for me. I had yet to discover if it suited Al too!

One of the beautiful mosaics on the wall of the loos at Totland Bay

After a quick pitstop at PO41 in Yarmouth (it met Al’s coffee standards!) we set off South across the Island to Freshwater Bay, following the cycle path along a retired railway line. One of the joys of cycling on the Island is the vast array of cycle paths and bridleways available. In addition to the quiet lanes, these traffic free routes make it a haven for curious cyclists.

We reached Freshwater Bay and turned back on ourselves to start making our way to Alum Bay on the Western tip of the Island. I’d planned the route using Komoot but finding that one of the roads was busier than expected we started to go off-piste. Zooming in on the app, we noticed a road that ran just above Totland Bay so we headed off in that direction, taking a detour to drop down into the Bay itself as well.

When I was little we often sailed to Totland Bay and anchored for the day to swim in the clear water. So many of the beaches around The Solent are stony, that this shallow sandy bay has always stuck in my memory as a magical place.

Making our way back out of Totland Bay we were grateful not to be towing CeCe as the climb was long and steep. The beautiful houses and views provided distractions and soon enough we were at the main road to Alum Bay. It became clear that half the day’s visitors to the Island were also making for Alum Bay as the traffic jam snaked back to meet us. So we decided to abandon Alum Bay, turn tail and start back towards Freshwater and lunch.

Alistair’s main stipulations for bike rides are good coffee and as little traffic as possible. Within those parameters I hadn’t tested his openness to route changes and exploration but he was rapidly proving highly flexible. A quick look on the map revealed a bridleway called The Drove which led to the Tennyson Trail.

Passing a gate we turned to see a Buzzard sitting on a fence post, watching us. For a second he allowed us to take in his beauty before flying away. It’s moments like that which I hope will remain etched in my memory for years to come.

We trundled along the Tennyson Trail before popping out on a headland overlooking Freshwater. It’s a fun path to cycle with roots and undulations.

View over Freshwater Bay from the Tennyson Trail

Cycling together feels like a truly equal space as a couple. Possibly because it is a sport that I have more experience in or maybe it’s simply down to the nature of cycling. Either way, I love how it takes us away from our ‘established roles’ in the marriage and gives us a chance to just be a couple. We laugh and joke in a way that feels unencumbered by day to day worries and responsibilities.

I have grown to love photography over the last few years and recently invested in a decent camera (a Fujifilm X100F). Alistair has always been interested in cameras and photography but I’ve never been able to learn from him. For whatever reason, the information didn’t stick and I quickly lost interest. This time though we shared the camera and I welcomed the suggestions and input from Alistair as I experimented with the settings.

The Thatched Church, Freshwater. Taken by Alistair

Miraculously we arrived at The Piano Cafe in Freshwater just before it filled up with half-term holidaymakers. After lunch and another well-made flat white and we were back on the bikes. We retraced our steps through Freshwater and climbed up to the golf course where we picked up the Tennyson Trail again, as it runs along the central chalk ridge of the Island.

Learning to love my wrinkles; with gratitude for years spent outdoors and the privilege of getting older

This section of the Tennyson Trail is my favourite place to ride on the Island. Thankfully the strong wind was behind us and I laughed as I felt it pushing me on for once. Even with laden skies the majesty of the chalk cliffs was clear. The Needles sit at the tip of that chalk cliff you can see below.

A famous vista for gravel cyclists on the Isle of Wight

We were about to drop down towards the road when we spotted a kestrel above it’s prey. We watched transfixed as it hovered for minutes before it swooped down and then disappeared from sight. The spell broken, we looked further down to see a herd of cows sheltering from the weather in a pocket on the hillside. As always the Island was offering all that was needed to reset and escape.

Cows in the fields as we head East along the Tennyson Trail

When we finished this section of the Tennyson Trail we still had a couple of hours before we needed to catch our ferry, but decided against pushing on further. The joy of pottering and meandering by bike won out over the need to ride further.

As we briefly joined the road, Alistair uttered the words ‘it’s amazing how nice tarmac can feel sometimes’ before I braked suddenly at the sight of a bridleway signpost. While I was ready to head for home, I wasn’t quite ready to stop exploring. This particular bridleway would not be suitable for all bikes but it was a great way to cut off a busy section of Middle Road that is a central artery across the Island.

Lights of Yarmouth and Lymington in sight across The Solent

‘I’ve had enough mud for today’ - I hear you and respect you, Al. Besides, it means that we have another bridleway to explore next time.

We arrived back in Yarmouth just in time to catch the next ferry. I always feel sad to be leaving the Island. The thought of being there, removed from the reality of life on the mainland is magic to me, but I know the Island is always there to escape to when I need a reset. Even better, Alistair loved the day’’s riding as much as me, and is excited to go back and explore again.

Our next ride on the Island is likely to be a Christmas picnic ride with the children and Grandparents. I can’t wait!